The position underneath most skills
Watch a skilled rider roll over an obstacle, corner on a slope or stop on a mark, and you will usually see the same stance beforehand: standing lightly on level pedals, knees and elbows bent, head up and weight centred. It is often called the attack position, or the ready position. It is not a trick, but it is the base most tricks start from.
The idea is simple. From a balanced, relaxed stance, a rider can move their weight forward, back or sideways quickly, absorb bumps and react to the bike. From a stiff, seated, hunched position, they cannot.
This page explains the position and how to practise it. It is general information and not a substitute for coaching, and because practising any skill carries a risk of falls, wear a helmet and suitable protection and practise on flat, smooth, traffic-free ground.
The parts of the position
Feet and pedals
The pedals are level, with cranks horizontal, so both feet are at the same height. Feet are usually placed with the ball of the foot over the pedal axle, though the exact spot varies with shoes and pedals. Weight goes down through the feet, not through the hands, and heels are generally relaxed slightly down. Level pedals matter because they keep the bike stable and allow the legs to work as shock absorbers on both sides.
Knees
Knees are bent, not locked, and may point slightly outward. Bent knees act like springs. When the front wheel meets a bump, the legs can flex and the bike can move under the rider rather than throwing them off.
Hips
The hips sit a little back and over the bike, usually above or just behind the saddle height, depending on the situation. Moving the hips back or forward is how riders change where the weight sits, which matters for braking, rolling over obstacles and turning. You do not need to reach the extremes. For most beginner practice, a modest hip hinge is plenty.
Arms and elbows
Elbows are bent and slightly out, not pointing down at the bike. Imagine you are holding a big beach ball between your chest and the bars. Relaxed arms let the front wheel move with the ground, while locked arms transmit every jolt to the body.
Hands and fingers
Hands hold the grips firmly but not tightly. One or two fingers rest on each brake lever, so you can brake without moving your hand. A white-knuckle grip tires the forearms and makes the bike harder to steer. Brake lever position is adjustable, and getting it comfortable is worth doing; if you are not sure how, a bike shop can help.
Head and eyes
The head is up, looking ahead to where you want to go, not at the front wheel. Where you look strongly affects where you steer, and this is a theme across balance and steering. Looking up also keeps the shoulders level.
Why it matters for tricks
Most skills, from small hops to tight turns, depend on moving weight deliberately. In a neutral stance:
- weight can shift forward or back without the rider falling off the pedals
- the legs and arms can extend and compress, which supports the movement in a hop or roll over an obstacle
- the rider’s centre of mass stays over the bike, which helps balance
- the brakes are within easy reach, so you can slow down without grabbing
If the position is wrong, the skill often goes wrong. A rider who sits stiffly, or who puts too much weight on the hands, may find that the bike feels twitchy or heavy. Many people who struggle with a new skill discover that the cause was in their basic stance, not in the skill itself.
How to practise safely
Choose a flat, smooth, empty area, with no traffic, pedestrians or slopes. Wear a helmet and gloves, and check the bike first. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the brakes and any adjustments.
- Stand next to the bike. Hold the grips, lean over it with bent knees and elbows, and feel where your weight sits. It should be mostly through the feet.
- Roll slowly and coast. Get moving gently, stop pedalling, and level the cranks. Stand lightly on the pedals with knees and elbows bent, just for a couple of seconds, then sit down.
- Rock the bike. While coasting slowly, gently push the bike forward and back, and side to side, under you. This shows how the bike can move while your body stays centred.
- Add a gentle bump. Roll slowly over a flat object, such as a line of chalk or a thin piece of wood laid flat, and notice how bent legs soften the impact. Keep it small.
- Rest and repeat. Stand for only a few seconds at first. It is tiring, and fatigue leads to mistakes.
Short, relaxed sessions are better than long ones. Aim for feeling comfortable before you add speed or anything harder.
Common mistakes
- Locked elbows and knees. The most common problem. Think soft, springy limbs.
- Hands carrying all the weight. Press the weight into your feet and keep your grip light.
- Looking down. Raise your head and look about ten metres ahead, or further if the space allows.
- Uneven pedals. One foot lower than the other gives an unbalanced stance. Remember: level pedals.
- Stiff, hunched shoulders. Take a breath and drop the shoulders.
- Skipping the basics. Hurrying past this stance to attempt a bigger trick usually costs more time than it saves.
Adjusting for the bike and the rider
The position is a guide, not a fixed shape. A tall rider, a short rider, a small child or an older rider will each find slightly different angles comfortable. Bike type matters too: a mountain bike with a wide bar and a road bike with drops will feel different. A bike that fits is much easier to hold in position; poor bike fit signs such as sore hands, a stretched back or constant sliding on the saddle suggest an adjustment is worth discussing with a shop.
If you have an injury or health condition that makes standing on the pedals difficult, ask a doctor or a qualified instructor for advice on what suits you.
Think of the stance as a base to return to between attempts. Once it feels natural, other skills tend to become more approachable.