Tricks for Riding a Bike on a Gravel Road

Why the line matters on gravel

A gravel road is not one surface but several at once. Traffic over time pushes loose stones into the middle and sides, and presses two firm strips into the ground where tyres usually pass. Between and beside those tracks there may be a loose, deep ridge of stones called a berm or windrow, and softer patches at the edges. Choosing where you ride is therefore the single biggest skill. The general ideas behind gravel road basics and dirt road riding are covered elsewhere on the site, and this article looks at the “tracking” side.

Conditions vary a lot by region, stone size, weather and how recently the road was graded. Treat this as general information for newer riders. Take it slowly, wear a helmet and gloves, and expect some slipping as you learn.

Find the hard-packed tracks

Look for the strips where vehicle tyres have compacted the surface. They are usually darker, smoother and flatter than the ground around them. These tracks give your tyres the most grip and the lowest rolling effort, and they are where most riders aim to be. A few tips:

• Look well ahead. Spotting the firm line 10 to 20 metres ahead gives you time to move to it gently. Staring at the wheel in front of you leaves no time to choose.
• Stay out of the loose ridge. The stones in the centre ridge and at the edges are deep and unpredictable. A wheel that wanders into them can wash out or be pulled sideways.
• Make small, early corrections. Gently steer to the line you want rather than jerking at the last moment. Quick steering on loose stones makes the front wheel slide.
• Cross loose patches straight. If you have to cross a berm, slow down, keep the bike upright and cross at a shallow angle with light hands, keeping your weight centred. Don’t brake mid-crossing.
• Expect the tracks to change. They may move from one side to the other or vanish on bends and hills. Keep reading the ground as you go. This kind of terrain reading is the main skill on gravel.

If you have to ride on the loose part, stay relaxed, avoid sudden braking, and let the bike find its own path. A tense, fighting rider is more likely to fall.

Speed, braking and corners

Loose stones reduce grip, so stopping distances generally get longer and sudden braking is more likely to cause a slide. Slow down before bends, use both brakes with gentle, progressive pressure, and do your braking in a straight line where possible. Our article on loose surface braking covers this in detail. Descents deserve special respect, because gravel can feel fine at slow speed and then become hard to control as you speed up.

In corners, slow beforehand, keep your weight balanced and look through the turn. Avoid braking hard or leaning aggressively in the middle of the curve. If the road has a camber, the outside of the bend can have loose stones piled up, so choose a wide, gentle line where it is safe.

Washboard sections

Washboard (also called corrugation) is a series of closely spaced ridges across the road, created by vehicles and wind. It can make your bike vibrate until your hands go numb and your tyres lose contact with the ground. Some pointers:

• Relax and let the bike buzz. Loose arms and slightly bent knees absorb vibration better than a stiff body.
• Find the smoother side. Washboard is often worse in the main tracks and gentler toward the edges or in the less-used part of the road. Sometimes a different line is smoother.
• Try a slightly faster rolling speed. At a steady pace the wheels can skim the ridges rather than dropping into every dip, but only go as fast as you can safely control. Never speed up past your comfort limit, especially near loose gravel.
• Mind the tyres. A slightly softer, wider tyre often reduces harshness, but check pressure guidance from the bike and tyre manufacturers rather than guessing figures.
• Take breaks. Fatigue in the hands and shoulders is real. Shake out your arms and change hand positions.

Passing vehicles and thrown stones

Cars and trucks on gravel throw up stones and dust, and they may not expect a cyclist. This is the part of gravel riding that is most about other people, so take it seriously:

1. Be visible. Wear bright clothing and use lights even by day, because dust clouds can hide you. Ride predictably and as far to the side as feels safe without entering deep loose gravel.
2. Listen and look behind. A glance back (without wobbling) or a mirror helps you know what is approaching. Wind can hide the sound of a vehicle.
3. Slow down as vehicles pass. Slowing reduces the chance that a thrown stone or sudden gust unsettles you. If the road is narrow and the vehicle large, stopping at the edge is often sensible.
4. Keep hands on the bars and eyes forward. Avoid swerving into loose stones if you are startled.
5. Protect your eyes. Glasses or sunglasses help keep stones and dust out.
6. Wave and acknowledge drivers. Friendly contact tends to produce more careful passing, although you can never rely on it.

On blind corners and crests, take extra care, because a vehicle may come around faster than you expect. Rural roads often have no marked shoulder, and rules differ by country, so check local laws.

Equipment and preparation

Gravel is hard on tyres and bikes. Carry a pump, a spare tube or repair kit, and the basic tools you can use, and know how to do a puncture repair. Check your tyres and brakes before setting out, since a quick tyre inspection can reveal cuts or embedded stones. Remote roads can be far from help and have patchy phone signal, so tell someone your route and take water.

Build up gradually

Start on a short, relatively smooth gravel road and ride at an easy pace. Learn how your bike feels when it slides slightly, and practise finding the firm line. Add distance and rougher roads over time. If the road is deep gravel, very steep or too loose, walking is a sensible choice, and nothing here can guarantee that a rider avoids a fall.