Most of the easy speed on a bike does not come from hard training. It comes from reducing waste: air that you push through, rolling resistance from soft or worn tyres, and effort lost to a poor position or choppy pedalling. After that, you can add a little structured effort if you wish.
This is general information, not coaching or medical advice. Fast riding raises the stakes if something goes wrong, so keep to quiet roads or paths, stay within your skill and obey local traffic laws. If you have a health condition, or have been inactive for some time, speak to a doctor before adding hard efforts.
Make the bike roll easily
Tyre pressure. Under-inflated tyres tend to feel sluggish, while very hard tyres can feel harsh and lose grip on rough surfaces. The right pressure depends on the tyre, the rider’s weight and the surface, and the tyre’s sidewall usually shows a recommended range. Check pressure regularly with a gauge and follow the tyre maker’s guidance. Tyres lose air slowly even when not in use, so a quick check before a ride is a sensible habit. Drag and rolling resistance both affect how much effort each kilometre takes.
Chain and drivetrain. A clean, lightly lubricated chain runs more smoothly than a dry, gritty one. If gears skip or shift badly, a bike shop can help.
Brakes that are not rubbing. Lift each wheel and spin it. If it stops quickly or you hear a constant scrape, a brake may be catching, which is worth getting checked.
Worn tyres. Tyre tread and grip matter for safety first, but cracked or heavily worn tyres can also be a source of punctures and slow riding. Replace them when they show wear.
Reduce the air you push
At moderate and higher speeds, most of your effort goes into moving through the air. Small changes help.
- Lower your torso. Bending your elbows and bringing your chest down a little, for example by riding on the drops of a road handlebar or in a relaxed forward lean, can reduce frontal area. Do it only if it feels stable and you can still see and brake comfortably.
- Keep clothing snug. Loose, flapping layers add drag.
- Keep your head steady and your elbows in. A narrow, quiet position is generally more efficient.
- Do not sacrifice safety. If a lower position makes you less aware of traffic, or makes the bike harder to control, use a higher one.
If you are curious about how and why this works, cycling aerodynamics explains the physics in more detail. Setup also plays a part: if your position feels cramped or painful, bike fit basics are worth checking before you try anything aggressive.
Pedal smoothly at a steady cadence
Pushing a gear that is too big tires the legs quickly, while spinning too light a gear can make you bounce. Choosing a gear that lets you turn the pedals at a comfortable, steady rate is usually more efficient for most riders. Pedalling cadence is individual, so experiment on flat ground rather than copying a number from somewhere else.
Try these:
- Spin-ups. On a quiet flat stretch, gradually raise your leg speed in a lighter gear until you feel you are about to bounce, then ease back to a comfortable rate.
- Round-stroke focus. Think about pulling and scraping through the bottom of the stroke rather than stamping.
- Gear early. Shift before the hill or junction, not during the hardest part.
Saddle position affects how freely your legs turn, so check setting saddle height if your knees ache or you rock side to side.
Ride at a pace you can sustain
Going out too hard is a very common mistake. A steady early pace, then picking up speed later if you feel good, usually leads to a faster overall ride than starting at full effort and fading. Pacing effort across a ride is a skill on its own and worth practising.
Wind makes a big difference to perceived effort. On a windy day, a headwind slows you more than a tailwind helps, so it is usually sensible to expect slower averages and not to judge yourself by them.
Add short intervals carefully
Intervals are short, harder efforts separated by easy riding. They are a common way to build speed, but they are tiring and not suitable for everyone, so start gently.
A simple example: after a good warm-up on a flat quiet road, ride at a firm but controlled effort for a short stretch, then ease off until you feel recovered, and repeat a few times before a relaxed cool-down. Keep the early efforts modest, stop if you feel unwell, dizzy or in pain, and allow rest days. Do not push harder when roads are wet, busy or unfamiliar.
There is no single best interval plan, and the results vary between riders. Over several weeks, many people find their usual pace feels easier, but this is not guaranteed.
Fix the small habits
Speed also hides in details:
- Look ahead so you can keep rolling rather than braking late.
- Corner smoothly so you can carry your speed through bends; carrying speed is cheaper than rebuilding it.
- Avoid unnecessary braking by reading junctions and traffic early.
- Coast sensibly and don’t pedal hard into a stop.
Putting it together
Speed is the end result of many small improvements. Check tyres and chain, adopt a calm, slightly lower position if it suits you, pedal smoothly, pace yourself and add a little effort in short, safe doses. If you want to combine pace with control, speed and agility drills cycling offers cone-based work in a closed space. Always keep safety ahead of numbers on a computer screen.