Gears are your climbing tool
Hills feel easier when the bike does some of the work for you, and the gears are how it does that. A lower (easier) gear lets you turn the pedals more times for each push, so each push is lighter. It does not make the hill smaller, and you still have to climb it, but it lets you spread the effort over many gentle pedal strokes instead of a few heavy ones. Many riders who dread hills find that the problem is not their legs but a gear that is too hard for the slope.
This article focuses on gear choice and timing. Pacing and breathing on longer hills, and steep-pitch technique, are covered in their own pages.
What “easy gear” means
On a typical bike with multiple chainrings at the front and a cluster of sprockets at the back, the easiest gear generally combines the smallest front ring with the largest rear sprocket. The hardest does the reverse. Shifters are usually marked or arranged so that one lever or direction makes the gear easier and the other harder, but this varies between bikes, so spend a few minutes on flat ground learning which does which on yours. A basic idea of how bike gears work makes everything else clearer.
If your bike has hub gears, the principle is the same but the mechanism is inside the rear hub, and some hub gears are best shifted while pedalling lightly or even while briefly easing off, depending on the type. Check the manual for your own system. If your bike has a single speed, you have no choice about gear, and your tactics are different; single-speed hill tactics cover that situation.
Shift before the hill, not on it
The most useful habit is to change down before the road tilts upward. There are two reasons.
First, shifting under heavy load is hard on the chain and the gear mechanism. Pushing hard on the pedals while the chain is trying to move to another sprocket can cause noisy, hesitant shifts, or a chain that jumps. Second, if you wait until you are struggling, you may find that your legs have already slowed, and you have to make a series of rushed shifts in the middle of a steep section.
A more comfortable approach:
- Look ahead. Spot the start of the climb as you approach it.
- Shift down one or two gears while the road is still flat or only slightly rising, so you are already in a gear you can turn.
- Keep pedalling smoothly, and ease the pressure slightly for a moment as you change.
- As the slope steepens, make further small changes rather than one large one.
The idea behind shifting before climbs is simple: you want to arrive at the base of the hill ready, not scrambling. Over time you will learn how your own bike responds and develop a feel for it.
Aim for a comfortable pedalling rate
Rather than choosing a gear by how it looks on paper, choose it by how it feels. A reasonable target is a rate of pedalling that feels smooth and sustainable, where your legs are working but not straining. If you are pushing so hard that your knees feel loaded and your speed is dropping, shift down. If the pedals are spinning so quickly that you bounce in the saddle and run out of breath, shift up a little. Understanding pedalling cadence can help you find the rate that suits you, and it varies between riders.
Resist the idea that using the easiest gear is cheating. Experienced riders also use easy gears, and hills are often climbed faster and with less fatigue by riders who keep a steady, lighter effort than by those who grind.
Avoid awkward combinations
On bikes with more than one front ring, some chain angles put extra strain on the drivetrain. Using the largest front ring with the largest rear sprocket, or the smallest with the smallest, is generally called cross-chaining and tends to cause noise and wear. On a climb you will often be in the small ring at the front, and you will usually work through the rear sprockets rather than flipping between front rings. If you find yourself running out of easy gears at the back while on the big front ring, change the front ring down and then adjust the rear. Do this with light pressure on the pedals.
Other common gear shifting mistakes include shifting too late, changing several gears at once, and pushing hard while shifting. If shifts are slow or the chain skips, it may need adjustment or cleaning; a quick chain and gear check before a hilly ride is worthwhile, and a bike shop can fix any problem. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your own components.
Rolling terrain
On rolling roads where climbs follow each other quickly, you may not have time to make large changes. Learning rolling terrain shifting means making small adjustments as the gradient changes, and using the momentum from a short descent to carry you up the next rise before shifting down. Looking ahead makes this smoother, as you can see the next change coming.
Position and mindset
Gears work best alongside a relaxed position. Sit tall but loose, keep your hands light on the bars, and keep your upper body quiet. If you feel yourself tensing and fighting the bike, shift to an easier gear and settle down.
A simple practice routine
Pick a gentle hill near home with little traffic. Ride it several times, trying different moments to shift, and notice how each feels. Try changing down early, then a little later, and see which feels smoother. Then try a slightly steeper hill. Over a few rides, the timing usually becomes automatic.
Remember that no gear choice guarantees an easy climb, as fitness, load, wind and surface all matter, and it is always sensible to walk when you need to.