Why trick bikes need extra attention
A bike used for tricks takes more punishment than one used for gentle rides. Landings, drops, bails and the occasional crash all load the frame, wheels and fasteners in ways that ordinary riding does not. Parts can work loose, tyres can lose pressure, grips can twist and brakes can wear without any obvious sign. A short routine before each session, known here as a pre-session trick bike check, catches many problems while they are still simple to deal with.
This is general guidance. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for your bike and its parts, and take any repair you are unsure about to a bike shop. If you ride something different from a standard bike, such as a single-speed or BMX, the check below still applies, with a few items simply not present.
A simple order to work in
Working through the bike in the same order every time makes the check quick and means you are less likely to skip something. A common approach is to start at the front and work back, or to use a quick-check method such as the ABCDE quick check, which is covered in its own article. For tricks, an easy order is wheels and tyres, brakes, bars and grips, bolts, drivetrain and finally a short test ride.
Tyres and wheels
- Squeeze the tyres and look at the sidewalls and tread. Cuts, bulges, cracks or exposed threads are reasons to replace the tyre. Tyre inspection explains what to look for.
- Check that the pressure is appropriate. The right pressure depends on the tyre, the rider and the riding, and the tyre’s sidewall or the manufacturer’s guidance will give a range; do not guess.
- Spin each wheel. It should turn without wobbling noticeably or rubbing on the frame or brakes. A wobble can mean a damaged rim or loose spokes, and a shop can check wheels for true.
- Make sure the wheels are held in properly. Wheel retention check covers quick releases and thru-axles, and many BMX and dirt jump bikes use axle nuts that need to be snug according to the manufacturer.
Brakes
If your bike has brakes, test them before every session. Squeeze each lever: it should feel firm, not spongy or hitting the bar, and the bike should slow when you roll it forward and brake. A brake test only takes a moment. Look at the pads for wear; brake pad wear shows what to look for. Brakes that feel odd, leak fluid or make loud noises are a job for a shop. Riding without working brakes where brakes are expected is not safe, and in many places it is not legal either.
Bars, stem and headset
Stand over the bike, hold the front brake and rock it back and forth. A knock or looseness at the top of the fork can indicate headset play. Check that the bars are not able to rotate in the stem by pushing down on them and trying to twist them. Handlebars that move, a stem that slips or a loose headset can all lead to loss of steering, and they should be corrected before riding.
Grips and pedals
Grips should not twist on the bar, and the bar ends should be capped or plugged so nothing sharp is exposed. Pedals should spin freely and sit tightly in the cranks. If you use flat pedals with pins, damaged or missing pins reduce grip, which is easy to underestimate in a hard landing. Replace pedals that are bent or worn smooth.
Bolts and fasteners
Look over the bike for anything loose: saddle clamp, seat post, stem, brake levers, crank bolts, axle nuts. The bounce test is a quick way to hear rattles: lift the bike a few centimetres and drop it gently, listening for anything that knocks. Tighten only what you know how to tighten, using appropriate tools, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on how tight. Over-tightening can damage parts, and under-tightening can be dangerous. If a bolt keeps coming loose, treat that as a warning and have a shop look at it.
Chain and drivetrain
If your bike has a chain, it should be clean, lightly lubricated and not rattle or skip. A worn chain and sprockets can slip under load, which is the last thing you want during a pedal-based trick. Chain and gear check covers the basics, and chain wear describes how shops judge it. A chain that is too loose can drop off, so check the tension if the manufacturer’s guidance tells you to.
Frame and fork
Look over the frame and fork for cracks, dents or paint that has lifted near the welds. A cracked frame is not a cosmetic issue and should be inspected by a shop before further riding. After a big landing or crash, take a closer look, including the wheels and bars; a post-crash bike check lists what to look at.
The test ride
Finish with a few minutes of gentle riding in a flat, traffic-free place. Brake, turn and listen for rattles, clicks or anything that feels different. If something does not feel right, stop and fix it first.
What to leave to the shop
Some jobs are best left to a bike shop, especially if you do not have the tools or experience. Examples include:
- Bleeding or repairing hydraulic brakes.
- Wheel truing or replacing spokes.
- Headset, bottom bracket and hub bearing work.
- Anything involving a cracked or bent frame or fork.
- Any fastener that is damaged, rounded or repeatedly loosening.
Do not guess at torque values or specifications; the manufacturer and the shop know them.
Keeping it up
Between sessions, keep the bike clean and dry, and store it somewhere sheltered. A regular service from a shop, with frequency depending on how often and how hard you ride, helps. None of this will prevent every fall, but it removes avoidable mechanical causes, and it means your attention can stay on the skill.