Most faults come from tension
Many technique problems share a root: tension. When riders feel nervous, they stiffen, and a stiff body steers poorly, absorbs bumps badly and tires quickly. The faults below look different on the surface, but fixing them usually means the same thing: relax, look up and move with the bike.
Change one fault at a time, in a flat, traffic-free place, and wear a helmet. Habits take weeks to change, so be patient. Riders differ in build, bikes differ in fit and results vary. If pain or numbness persists, it is worth mentioning to a doctor, and a bike shop can check whether your set-up is contributing.
The death grip
What it looks like. White knuckles, rigid wrists and a clamp on the handlebars, often with the thumbs wrapped tightly and fingers locked on the brake levers.
Why it matters. A tight grip sends every bump into your arms and shoulders, makes steering jerky and tires your hands. It can also lead to numb or sore hands over longer rides.
How to fix it.
- Let go slightly, until you hold the bars firmly enough to stay in control but loosely enough to wiggle your fingers.
- Check that your brake levers are positioned so you can reach them with your fingers while your wrists stay straight. If you cannot, it is worth looking at brake lever position or asking a shop to adjust it.
- Every few minutes, flex your fingers and take a breath. Some riders set a reminder on a regular landmark, such as every lamp post on a quiet route.
- Practise slow-speed riding in a straight line while keeping your hands soft.
Locked arms
What it looks like. Straight, rigid elbows, with the shoulders pushed up toward the ears.
Why it matters. Straight arms cannot absorb shocks, so bumps travel to your shoulders and neck. They also make it hard to shift your weight, which is needed for turning, braking and balance.
How to fix it.
- Bend your elbows slightly and let them point out a little, rather than tucking in.
- Drop your shoulders away from your ears.
- Notice whether your handlebar reach is too long, which can force straight arms and is one of the poor bike fit signs. If it feels stretched, a bike shop can advise on set-up.
- Practise a neutral stance in which your hips, knees and elbows are slightly bent and you could move in any direction.
Looking down at the front wheel
What it looks like. Head bowed, eyes fixed on the tyre or the patch of ground just ahead.
Why it matters. Looking down gives you very little time to react and tends to make steering twitchy. The bike also tends to drift toward where you look, so staring at an obstacle can pull you toward it.
How to fix it.
- Lift your chin and look well ahead, to where you want to go in a second or two.
- In a turn, look through the exit rather than at the ground in front of the wheel.
- Practise good visual focus on an empty paved area by riding toward a distant marker, not a close one, and notice how much smoother the line becomes.
- Use quick glances down when needed, then return your eyes to the horizon.
Hunching and tension in the neck
What it looks like. Rounded shoulders, a craned neck and a tense jaw.
Why it matters. It tires you and can make your upper body stiff.
How to fix it. Relax the jaw, breathe out, and lengthen your neck so your head is stacked comfortably over your shoulders. If neck or back pain persists, check bike fit with a professional and speak to a doctor if needed.
Sitting rigid in turns
What it looks like. The rider steers only with the arms and keeps the whole body upright and stiff, so the bike feels unwilling to turn.
How to fix it. Look through the turn, slow down before it, and let the bike lean a little underneath you while you press lightly on the outside pedal. Start with big, gentle curves at low speed and tighten them only as the movement feels natural.
Grabbing the front brake
What it looks like. A sudden, hard squeeze of the front brake, often when startled.
Why it matters. Heavy front braking can shift weight forward and, in some conditions, upset the bike. It is more of a risk on slippery surfaces or in a turn.
How to fix it. Practise braking early and progressively, working on front and rear brake use together, on a flat, clear surface. Squeeze rather than snatch. Surface and bike differ, so build up slowly. If you are unsure, a qualified instructor or a skills lesson can help you learn this safely.
Pedalling in rough, heavy strokes
What it looks like. Stamping on the pedals, bouncing in the saddle or grinding in a hard gear.
How to fix it. Choose a gear that lets you pedal evenly without strain, and think about a smooth, round stroke. Shifting early, rather than when the effort is already high, keeps things steady.
Stopping the wobble
If you want to stop wobbling on a bike at low speed, note that wobbling often goes with several faults at once: tight grip, locked arms and looking down. Fixing those frequently reduces the wobble on its own. A little speed can also help steady the bike, so avoid crawling while you work on it.
How to make the fixes stick
- Pick one fault. Choose the one that you suspect is the biggest.
- Use a short cue. “Soft hands” or “eyes up” works better than a long list.
- Practise in short blocks. A few minutes at a time with breaks.
- Check in regularly. Ask a friend to watch for the fault, or film a short clip.
- Be patient. Old habits can return when you are tired or nervous. That is normal.
If something hurts, feels unsafe or does not improve, stop and get advice instead of forcing it. Some skills, such as jumps and flips, should only be learned from qualified instructors at suitable places.