Why the start deserves as much attention as the stop
A bike is at its least stable when it is nearly stationary. At low speed there is little momentum to keep it upright, so the front wheel wanders and small mistakes become wobbles. That is exactly when you are often next to traffic, at a junction or pedestrian crossing. A calm, repeatable routine for stopping and then moving off reduces the chance of an awkward moment.
This article focuses on the junction routine: preparing before the stop and pulling away afterwards. The braking technique itself, including emergency stops, is covered separately. As with any skill, practise first in a quiet, flat, traffic-free place such as an empty car park, wear a helmet, and build up gradually. This is general information, not coaching.
Before you stop: prepare early
Preparation begins well before you reach the line. Look ahead and notice when a light has been green for a while or when a queue is forming, so you are not surprised. Slow gradually rather than leaving everything until the last moment.
Most of the work happens in the gears. As you slow, shift to an easier gear so that the pedals turn without much effort when you pull away. If you stop in a hard gear, you will have to push hard to get going, and the bike is more likely to lurch or veer. Choosing a starting gear is easier if you shift while still rolling, because many drivetrains do not change gear well when the pedals are not turning. Shifting while pedalling lightly, and without pushing hard, usually gives smoother shifting and is gentler on the chain.
Which gear counts as easy depends on your bike, your fitness and the gradient. A reasonable test is that you can turn the pedals from a standstill without standing up and straining. If you ride a single-speed bike, you cannot change gear, so single-speed starts rely more on pedal position and a gentle push.
Coming to a halt
As you reach the stop, brake smoothly with both brakes and keep the bike upright and straight. Just before you stop, move to the side of the saddle you will put your foot down on, or tilt the bike slightly towards that side. Many riders choose the foot nearer the kerb so they are not stepping into the road.
Place the ball of your foot, or the whole foot if the ground is uneven, on the ground, and keep the other foot on its pedal. If you ride with clip-in pedals, unclip well before you stop. Practise this until it is automatic, as forgetting is a common reason for low-speed tip-overs.
While stopped, keep one brake on if you are on a slope or beside traffic, so the bike cannot roll. Stay alert to what is happening around you rather than looking only at the light.
The power pedal position
The pedal on the side opposite your supporting foot is your first push, and its position matters. The idea of a power pedal position is to set the pedal that you will push first at roughly the two o’clock position, slightly above level and at the front. From there, your first downstroke has a good range to travel and the bike gets moving quickly.
To set it, roll back the pedal with the foot that is still on it, or lift the supporting foot and use the pedal to rotate the crank. Keep the front brake lightly on if you need to avoid rolling forward while you adjust. Different riders prefer slightly different angles, and your bike’s fit will affect this, so treat the clock position as a guide.
Checking traffic before you move
Before you pull away, check around you. Look ahead for vehicles and pedestrians who may still be crossing, then glance behind, over the shoulder, to see if anything is approaching from the rear. If you need to practise looking back without veering, a good shoulder check habit is worth building in a quiet place first.
If you are moving off from a junction, be wary of drivers who are watching the light rather than you. Allow someone who looks as if they may still enter the junction to go first. Waiting an extra second is a better choice than trusting that you have been seen. If you are in the middle of a lane, signal your intention to move off or turn as you would on the move, and follow local rules at junctions.
Pulling away
When the way is clear, release the brake and push down firmly but not violently on the power pedal. As the bike starts to roll, lift yourself onto the saddle (or stay seated if you were already sitting), place your other foot on its pedal and begin turning the cranks. Look where you want to go rather than at the front wheel. The speed you gain in the first few pedal strokes is what stabilises the bike, so aim for a steady push rather than a slow wobbly start.
A few things commonly go wrong:
- Starting in too hard a gear, which makes the first push heavy and uneven.
- Looking down, which leads the front wheel to wander.
- Rushing the second foot onto the pedal, and missing it. Slow down, keep pedalling, and find the pedal by feel.
- Gripping the bars too tightly, which makes steering jerky. Keep your arms relaxed.
Starting uphill
Setting off on an incline is harder because gravity pulls you backwards. Use an easier gear than on flat ground, keep the brake on until you are ready, and take a firm first push. Starting from a stop on steep slopes may take extra practice, and walking the bike up a short steep section is always an acceptable choice.
A simple practice routine
- In an empty, flat car park, ride slowly and shift down to an easy gear as you roll.
- Brake to a stop, put one foot down and set the power pedal.
- Check around, then pull away and settle into your normal gear.
- Repeat several times, alternating which foot you put down.
- Add a pretend traffic check each time, looking forward and over your shoulder.
Short, relaxed sessions work better than long ones. Over time the sequence becomes automatic, leaving more of your attention free for traffic when it counts.