How to Clean and Lube a Bike Chain

Why the chain needs attention

The chain turns your leg power into forward motion, and it does so while running through a lot of tiny moving joints, sliding over gear teeth, and collecting dust, grit and water. When it is dry or gritty, it creates noise, wears faster and can make shifting less crisp. A clean, properly lubricated chain generally runs more quietly and lasts longer, along with the gears it works with.

This article describes the general approach. Chains, lubricants and cleaning products differ, so follow the instructions from the maker of your chain, your lubricant and any cleaning product. If you are unsure, a bike shop can show you in a couple of minutes.

When to clean

There is no single interval. Some signs it is time:

• The chain looks black and gritty, with a dark paste on the links.
• It squeaks, rattles or sounds dry.
• You have ridden in rain, mud, sand or on salted roads. Riding in the rain washes lubricant away as well as adding dirt.
• The bike has been stored for a while.

For regular riders, a quick wipe and re-lube is often enough between deeper cleans, and a more careful clean when the chain looks grimy.

What you need

• A suitable bike chain lubricant.
• A degreaser made for bikes, or a cleaning device that holds degreaser around the chain. Check that anything you use is safe for your chain and bike parts.
• A stiff brush and an old toothbrush for tight spots.
• Clean rags or paper towels.
• Gloves to protect your hands from degreaser and dirty oil.
• Somewhere to catch drips, since cleaning products and old oil can stain floors and harm the environment. Dispose of waste as local rules require.
• A bike stand, or a way to hold the rear wheel off the ground so you can turn the pedals backwards safely.

Step by step: cleaning

1. Prepare the area. Work somewhere well ventilated and protect the floor. Keep cleaners away from your skin, eyes and brakes.
2. Wipe off the worst. With the bike steady and the rear wheel off the ground, hold a rag around the chain and turn the pedals backwards. This removes loose dirt and old lube.
3. Apply degreaser. Apply the product as its instructions say. Use a brush to work it into the links, rollers and the gear teeth. Do this carefully so that the product does not run onto brake pads or discs.
4. Scrub the drivetrain. Brush the chain, the cassette or rear sprockets, the chainrings and the small wheels in the rear derailleur. These parts hold a lot of grime.
5. Rinse as instructed. Some products need rinsing, others only wiping. Use a gentle flow of water and avoid blasting water straight into bearings, as with washing a bike in general.
6. Dry thoroughly. Wipe the chain and let the drivetrain dry fully. Lubricating a wet chain can trap water and reduce the lube’s effectiveness.

Step by step: lubricating

1. Choose a lubricant for your conditions. Different lubes are made for dry, wet or mixed riding, and each has trade-offs. Wetter lubes tend to resist washing off but can attract more dirt, while drier lubes tend to stay cleaner but may need to be reapplied more often. The label should explain what it is designed for.
2. Apply to the chain, not the whole bike. Turn the pedals slowly backwards and add a small amount of lubricant onto each link, as the maker directs. The goal is to get lube into the rollers and pins, where the moving parts are.
3. Let it work in. Many lubes recommend waiting a short time for the product to penetrate. Follow what the label says.
4. Wipe off the excess. Hold a clean rag around the chain and turn the pedals again. The outside of the chain does not need to be shiny or wet; extra lube mainly collects dirt. The inside, where the lube has penetrated, is what matters.
5. Check the surroundings. Make sure no lube has reached the rims, discs or pads. If it has, clean the contaminated parts with a method that suits them, or get advice from a shop, because contaminated brakes can be weak and noisy.

Common mistakes

• Using the wrong product. General household sprays or oils are not necessarily suited to bike chains and can attract dirt or damage some parts. Use products made for bikes.
• Over-lubricating. A dripping chain flings oil and picks up grit.
• Lubricating a dirty chain. New lube on top of old grime tends to form a grinding paste.
• Contaminating brakes. Spray carefully, and consider shielding the wheel and brake area with a rag or card.
• Skipping drying. Water left in the chain can cause rust.
• Ignoring wear. Cleaning does not reverse stretch. If a chain is worn, a clean one still needs replacing, and chain wear is something shops measure with a dedicated tool. Replacing a chain in time can protect the more expensive gears.

Special cases

Some bikes have different drivetrains. Belt drives, for instance, do not use a lubricated chain, and sealed hub gears have their own service needs. If your bike has an unusual setup, rely on the manufacturer’s instructions. A simpler setup can make for a low-maintenance commuter machine, but it still benefits from regular checks.

After cleaning

Test the shifting and the brakes before you ride. Give the drivetrain a quick look next time you do a chain and gear check, and re-lube if the chain sounds dry. Regular, light attention generally beats an occasional big effort.

If the chain looks damaged, has stiff links, keeps skipping or is very rusty, a shop can advise whether to replace it. Doing so is cheap compared with letting the gears wear out.