Going down is the risky half
Climbing is tiring, but descending is where most of the danger on steep roads lies. Speed builds fast, the bike needs more braking, and a mistake has less room to be corrected. The most useful mindset is speed discipline: you choose your speed, rather than letting the slope choose it for you.
This is general information, not coaching. Steep descents are risky, so wear a helmet and suitable protection, choose descents that suit your experience and be ready to walk or stop if one feels beyond you. Local conditions vary, and nobody can promise a descent is safe.
Set your speed before you need to
On a steep road, it is much easier to stay slow than to slow down from fast. Start the descent at a pace you would be comfortable stopping from, and increase only if the road and your confidence allow it.
A useful rule is to ride at a speed where you could stop within the distance you can see to be clear. Around blind bends, over crests and in shadow, that distance shrinks, so your speed should too. Several braking distance factors work against you on a descent: a heavier load, wet or gravelly surface, worn pads and the steepness itself all lengthen stopping distances.
Braking technique
Good braking on a long descent is smooth and planned.
- Use both brakes. Using only one overworks it and can lock a wheel. Front and rear brake use is shared, with the front doing more of the work on firm surfaces but with care.
- Squeeze progressively. Apply the levers gradually, not with a sudden grab. A smooth increase gives the tyres time to build grip.
- Brake before the bend. Slow down while the bike is upright and straight, then release as you lean in. Braking hard mid-corner can run you wide or cause a slide.
- Avoid dragging the brakes constantly. Holding the levers on all the way down can heat the brakes and tire your hands. Many riders find that short, firm slowing before a bend, then letting speed build a little on straighter sections, helps control heat. Always stay within a speed you can manage.
- Know your brakes. Rim and disc brakes behave differently in heat and wet. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance, check pads regularly and have a bike shop look at anything that feels weak or noisy. Brake pad wear matters on a long descent, because heavy use wears them faster.
If your brakes feel soft, if they fade or if the lever travel changes, slow down and stop in a safe place. Do not keep going on brakes you do not trust.
Heat and tired hands
Long steep descents can heat the braking surfaces. Overheated brakes may work less well, and in some cases other parts can be affected. Pulling the levers for several minutes also tires fingers, hands and forearms.
- Take short pauses on a long descent in a safe place, such as a wide pull-out, rather than pushing on.
- Loosen your grip on the straights and shake out your hands.
- Ride with your weight balanced and arms slightly bent, so you are not pushing on the bars with all your weight.
- Do not touch hot brake parts; let them cool.
- If your fingers feel numb or weak, stop before control suffers.
- Cold can make hands less effective too, so carry gloves and a layer for a long descent.
Body position
On steep descents, shift your hips back a little and keep your heels low and pedals level, with your elbows bent and your eyes ahead. Sitting too far back can unload the front wheel and reduce steering, so aim for a balanced position that feels stable. Keep your fingers on the brake levers, with a light grip you can maintain.
Cornering lines
Mountain roads often have tight hairpins and switchbacks. A sound line helps you stay safe.
- Look through the bend. Your eyes should go to where you want to go, not to the edge or to oncoming traffic.
- Stay in your lane. Do not cut across to widen a bend, because vehicles can come the other way. Local rules on which side to ride differ, so check them.
- Choose a line that opens up the bend. The cornering line that keeps you in your own lane while giving the longest view is usually safest, and slower is better if you cannot see around it.
- Keep the bike more upright if the surface looks wet, sandy or gravelly, and slow down more before such corners.
- Do not brake in the apex of a tight hairpin. Slow before, then roll through.
- Pedals level, weight on the outside foot when leaning is a common guideline for stability.
Surface hazards
Look out for gravel washed onto corners, painted lines, drain covers, wet leaves and shaded damp patches. Also watch for animals, walkers and other cyclists. Slippery surface clues such as a sheen or darker patches are worth noticing early. If you spot a hazard late, avoid sudden swerves; slow gently and pass wide when it is safe to do so.
Be a predictable road user
On a narrow mountain road, other users need to understand what you will do. Signal, hold your line and avoid sudden moves. Do not overtake blindly on bends, and be careful passing slow riders. In a group, leave extra space between bikes on descents, since braking distances rise with speed and a sudden stop ahead is hard to avoid. Hill etiquette for descending covers courtesy on shared roads in more detail.
When descents are too much
Some descents are simply too steep or rough for a given rider and bike. Walking is always an option. You can also stop for a while on a steep road, using a wide spot, to rest. If conditions turn bad with rain, fog, ice or high winds, consider waiting or choosing a different route. Descending in the dark is far riskier and best avoided without proper lights and experience.
Build up gradually
Begin with gentler descents and learn how your bike responds to braking at different speeds. Over time, you build feel for the distance you need to stop and the speed at which you feel in control. Practising on a quiet, safe road, away from traffic, is more sensible than testing yourself on a mountain pass. Skill, patience and restraint matter more than bravery.