What cadence means
Cadence is the number of times your pedals go round each minute, usually written as revolutions per minute, or rpm. A high cadence simply means turning the pedals faster, while a low cadence means turning them more slowly and pushing harder on each stroke. Pedalling cadence is a separate topic with its own article, so this one focuses on the practical side of spinning faster.
There is no single correct number. What feels right depends on your fitness, your bike, the terrain and your experience. Instead of chasing a figure, aim for a pace that feels smooth and sustainable, where you could keep going comfortably and still talk. If you are curious about your own number, a cadence sensor or a bike computer can show it, and many riders are surprised to find they pedal slower than they imagined.
Why some riders prefer spinning
Spinning in an easier gear means each pedal stroke asks for less force. Many riders find this eases the strain on their knees and leg muscles, and that it feels less like a grind on climbs or into the wind. Some riders also find it makes a long ride feel more even, because the effort is spread across many light strokes instead of a few heavy ones.
That is a common experience, not a promise. People differ, and spinning faster still uses energy, so it moves the effort around rather than removing it. It may not suit everyone, and some riders prefer to push a bigger gear more slowly. If you have knee pain, joint problems or any medical condition, speak to a doctor before changing how you ride, and consider a professional bike fit, since saddle height and cleat position can affect comfort.
The gear connection
Cadence and gear choice are linked. If you stay in a tall gear and try to spin fast, you will go very quickly, which is rarely sensible. To raise your cadence at the same speed, you move to an easier gear. The principle is the same as in gear ratios: a lower ratio means less force per turn but more turns for the same speed.
On a bike with a range of gears, shifting down a gear or two is the natural way to find a higher cadence. Do it early and smoothly, following the habits in smooth shifting. When approaching a hill, change before you are struggling, as described in shifting before climbs. On a single-speed bike there is only one ratio, so your cadence rises and falls with your speed, which is something to think about when you pick hilly routes.
Getting started
Choose a flat, quiet, traffic-free stretch, such as a calm path or a quiet empty car park. Ride at an easy pace in a light gear, and let your legs turn a little faster than usual. Keep your upper body relaxed, your shoulders loose and your hands light on the bars. The aim is to feel round and even, not to rush.
A good test is whether you are bouncing on the saddle. If your hips rock from side to side, you are going too fast for your current skill. Back off to a cadence where the saddle feels quiet, and build up gradually. The ideas behind pedal stroke technique can help, especially thinking about unweighting the pedal at the top and the bottom of the stroke.
Simple drills
Treat these as options, not a programme. Stop if anything hurts, and keep sessions short at first.
- Light-gear spin. Pedal in an easy gear at a comfortable pace for a few minutes, noticing how smooth the stroke feels.
- Speed-up bursts. Spin a little faster for around 20 to 30 seconds, then return to your normal pace. Repeat a few times, with plenty of easy riding between.
- Count your turns. Count how many times one foot reaches the bottom of the stroke in 15 seconds, multiply by 4 and you have a rough rpm. For example, 20 pedal turns in 15 seconds is 20 x 4 = 80 rpm. Use it to see how your pace changes, not to judge yourself.
- Single-focus session. Spend a ride paying attention only to smoothness, with no targets for speed or distance.
- Gear shuffle. Practise shifting up and down while keeping the same speed, to feel how cadence changes.
If you want something more structured, the topic of deliberate practice describes how short, focused sessions help skills grow over time.
Common problems
- Bouncing. Lower your cadence until the saddle is calm, and check that your saddle is set at a suitable height. A saddle that is too high or too low can make spinning awkward.
- Tension in the upper body. Relax your grip and drop your shoulders. Hunched hands and stiff arms make smooth pedalling harder.
- Chasing a number. Cadence is a guide, not a score. Terrain, wind and fatigue all change what feels right.
- Dropped speed. If spinning makes you slower at first, that is common. Give it a few rides to feel natural before judging it.
Spinning safely in traffic and on hills
A higher cadence makes it easier to start from a stop and to accelerate away from junctions, because you are in a light gear. It can also help you climb steadily without standing. On descents, avoid spinning out in a gear that is too light, since your legs can run out of control; coast or choose a higher gear and keep your attention on the road. In traffic, keep your focus on the road, not on your numbers, and use bike computer data only when it is safe.
Where to go next
Treat cadence as one of several tools. Combine it with good gear choice, a bike that fits and relaxed technique. Over weeks, your legs will adapt to turning faster, and many riders find the effort feels smoother. Nobody has to adopt a particular style, so keep what helps and drop what does not.